While Some Wait For Cherry Blossoms As A Sign Of Spring (and This Includes Me), Another Sign Of The Season

A year ago, I was taking off for Japan

No such five-week adventure this year, but I have the chance to relive the smell and taste of Japan courtesy of Yuki, Kazu, Asaka and Maiko who I met in Paris last month, and who gave me a lot to eat and drink! So, to mark the anniversary, I decided it was time to have nice things...

Kitsune udon with nori, ebi and yuzu senbei

The kitsune udon floored me. The smell of the soup base was enough to transport me, I couldn't get enough of that savoury scent.

Matcha KitKat, dried nattô and konbucha

I hadn't tried nattô in Japan, but I'd read it had a bit of a reputation. So I was a little apprehensive trying the nattô morsels, but a little less so when I read that dried nattô is actually milder than the real thing. And I like it! And so do colleagues I've shared it with!

The konbucha is... interesting. First, do not confuse with kombucha. I know, I know, it's very confusing. This konbucha is kelp tea, a tea made with algae, combined with plum and extra salt. It kind of tastes like the sea, only milder... It's pleasant in its own way, though I'd probably make the next one less strong.

And if you want to run through last year's voyage, I did a travel blog here, but I'll also go through some places here at a leisurely pace (I've already reviewed Kushimoto, Hikone Sawayama and Nagahama -to name what I can remember- from that trip here).

Burg Stahleck, Bacharach

The Mittelrhein, valley of the Rhine between Mainz and Köln, is one of the most spectacular geographic and historic locations in Germany. It is lined by medieval forts like we've seen closer to where I live (exhibits A, B, C...), castles usually destroyed or ruined during or following the Thirty-Years War. Except that in this part of Germany, many of these castles were restored or rebuilt in the 19th to 20th centuries for new purposes. As such, Burg Stahleck, the castle above the town of Bacharach, was redeveloped into a youth hostel!

The architect in charge was told to use the existing walls as much as possible, and, I'd argue rather tastefully, added storeys for the hostel. I had considered staying here, but by the time I had made my decision, it was full. That said, in a case of sour grapes perhaps, I reasoned that I wouldn't have enjoyed climbing up to the castle from the station with luggage, however light. Nonetheless, noting that the hostel has drinks for sale, I decided to enjoy a lemonade with this view of the river!

Where I grew up (initially): Great Chesterford

Going back to Great Chesterford with my current eyes was quite interesting. I hadn't realised (as no 6-year-old would) how pretty the village centre was, with many charming houses and thatched cottages. The nearest town, Saffron Walden, is even better, but I'd need to go back and visit properly. This time, we just passed through there to go to the shops - and pick up a bunch of biscuits and sweets I remember from my childhood!

Said sweets and biscuits are very nice, of course, but also a tad underwhelming. I remember feeling disappointed by the size of Party Rings the last time I bought some, and I had a similar sense of underwhelming when passing near the school. The wall along the street was much higher in my memory, as was the hill at the back of the playground - in my mind, it was a proper hill! But take into account the fact that I was so much smaller back then, and it all checks out, really!

The old school building itself was apparently built by a single person between 1845 and 1849. Chesterford has a very rich history, dating back to Roman times (and if nothing else on the topic, I remember dressing up as a Roman at school once), and the church dates back to the 13th century. The village's biggest claim to fame is probably having been the home of Germaine Greer, a feminist author from the 1970s, for a few decades.

Sangaku Sunday #11

We're almost there! We have three relations between our unknowns, the radii p, q and r. Actually, let's write them in the general setting, with any height.

Set SO = h and ON = k (so the number b in the problem so far has been equal to k/h). Repeating what we've done in previous steps, and substituting q and r in the final equation so that we get an equation with just p (I've done it so you don't have to), this is what we're solving:

The plan is simple: get p with the last equation, deduce q then r with the first two. The execution of the plan... not so simple. That last equation is messy. Let's tidy it up a bit by noting that it is actually a polynomial equation of the variable x=squareroot(2p):

There are formulas for the solutions to an equation like this, but if we can avoid using them, we'll be happy.

Here's what I did - and you can do too: a numerical test. Let's take the simplest dimensions for a right triangle, h = 4 and k = 3. Replace in the last equation and notice an obvious solution. Deduce p, then q, then r. Jubilate - until you realise something is very, very wrong...

The Mulhouse-Thann tram-train

Combining a suburban train service with the ability to navigate city streets sounds amazing. People can live nearer to the countryside, get frequent service into town, and, if everything lines up, commute straight into work without changes and avoiding the main station. The complementarity and opportunity to revitalise a branch line all sounds appealing... but a real challenge to implement. In France, only Mulhouse has truly achieved it.

Tram-trains aren't exactly rare in France: there are several lines around Paris, Nantes and Lyon have them (and many more had tram-train projects at some point). But, while the vehicles are capable of running in both modes, they are mostly used as a cheaper way to operate a line. The Nantes-Clisson and Nantes-Châteaubriant tram-trains, for example, which I have ridden, are just regional trains, running on heavy rail nearly all the way, and only stopping where the trains always used to.

Mulhouse is the only place in France to have true tram-train operations as described in the introduction: the tram-trains add traffic to line 3 between Mulhouse central station and Lutterbach, before switching to train mode and continuing on the branch line to Kruth as far as Thann.

The vehicles themselves are remarkable, as they need to be equipped for both streetcar and heavy rail operations, and each has its own requirements: lighting, horns, power supply, safety features... Mulhouse's vehicles are Siemens Avanto S70s, built in 2009-2010, and operated by SNCF as class U 25500. Similar units were introduced near Paris as early as 2005.

French and German cross-border railcars

Just on the French side of the border, Wissembourg station sees French TERs arriving from Haguenau and Strasbourg, meeting German Regionalbahn from Landau and Neustadt. When a French service doesn't cross the border itself, SNCF and DB services are often synced up, giving us the chance to see both companies' cross-border efforts side by side.

The B 85500 is a brand-new bi-mode (electric and Diesel) multiple unit from the Alstom Régiolis family. While not the first international Régiolis - a tri-voltage electric version runs between Évian and Geneva -, the B 85500 adds autonomous Diesel power. With 30 units on order, it aims to revive and/or intensify cross-border routes into Germany. I was under the impression there was a bit of a gathering at the front end of the train, maybe local politicians marking the type's first visit to Wissembourg?

On the German side meanwhile, we have a standard railcar for what DB regard as a relatively low-density non-electrified regional route, which was closed to passengers for over 20 years between 1975 and 1997. The BR 628/928 (628: power car, 928: trailer car) is a 1980s design. Besides the lack of low floor, there's not a lot wrong with them, and they have comfortable, current DB Regio interiors. More recent types have been used, and if a plan to electrify Landau and Winden stations to allow charging of battery-EMUs goes ahead, there could soon be the latest trains on the German side of Wissembourg station too.

Which brings us to our "I beg your pardon" of the week:

Three churches in Le Havre

This building very much stands out in Le Havre's rebuilt city centre, as it is far more ornate than its surroundings. It's the oldest building in Le Havre, completed in 1638, just 120 years after the founding of the town. Damage by Allied bombings but not completely destroyed, the old church was kept and restored, and, with Le Havre becoming a major town again, it got its own diocese in 1974. The church then became Notre-Dame Cathedral of Le Havre, and is now approaching 50 years in the role (anniversary in December).

As it had been decided to keep the old church, Auguste Perret, the architect in charge of the reconstruction, would build a church of his own elsewhere: the new Church of Saint Joseph, a blocky concrete structure, perfectly in sync with the rest of the urban project. Where the cathedral sticks out as its rounded, classic facade contrasts with the angular buildings around it, Saint Joseph's stands out with its tall central spire. Culminating at 107 m, the tower is inspired by lighthouses, a symbol of Le Havre's maritime nature.

Somewhere in between, other churches further away from the port also survived the war - not without damage, but restoration was chosen over replacement. In the foreground, Saint Vincent de Paul's Church was built in the 19th century in a neo-Romanesque style, its central tower reminiscent of the abbey on Mont Saint Michel.

The fortifications of Wissembourg

From one fortified town to another, just South of the current French-German border: Wissembourg. In a region rife with conflict, between cities and lords, sometimes between a city and their own lord, protective walls, moats and towers around the town were a must.

This tower, called the Poudrière, was built in the 13th century, and served as gunpowder storage at some point, hence the name. The walls in front of it are more recent, dating back to the 16th century, featuring a dam system which would flood the moat if needed. This complex can be seen in the North-East corner of the town on this 1750 map.

Despite these protections, Wissembourg suffered massively between the 15th and 17th centuries. And in spite of all that, the town centre retains much of its original plan and many traditional buildings. I should go back on a nicer day to get better pictures...

Hikone Sawayama: base

Walking North along the railway from Hikone station, one reaches the base of the hiking trail up Sawayama. After passing Nagabayashi Inari-jinja, a typical shrine dedicated to the shintô deity of prosperity with its succession of red torii gates, several temples appear, featuring monuments to two historical figures of Hikone, Ishida Mitsunari and Ii Naomasa. More on them when we reach the top.

This is Ryôtan-ji Sanmon, the "gate to the mountain" which leads us to the grounds of Ryôtan temple and starting the short, sharp climb. As we begin, we are met with more popular Japanese deities: the Shichi-Fukujin, or Seven Lucky Gods.

Apparently Ryôtan-ji has a fantastic zen garden, but we missed it.

A few pictures of Bastille Day fireworks... at least whatever got above the roofline.